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Russian Tortoise
Meet the species

Russian Tortoise

Testudo horsfieldii

  • Beginner

The Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii), also called the steppe or Horsfield's tortoise, is a small tortoise from the steppe regions of Central Asia. Its shell reaches roughly 13-25 cm, it weighs about 0.4-1.3 kg, and with good care it can live 40-50 years. Compared with the Greek or Hermann's tortoise it is smaller, has only four claws on each front foot instead of five, and tolerates drier air, which is why it is generally considered the most beginner-friendly of the commonly kept tortoises.

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Grooming needs

2/5 demand scale

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Activity needs

2/5 demand scale

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Care in practice

UVB, dry diggable substrate, long brumation; less humidity than Mediterranean tortoises

Quick species summary

Suitable for
beginners and families wanting a less demanding tortoise
Care difficulty
medium
Warm zone
35 °C
Cool zone
21 – 27 °C
Humidity
40 – 50 %
UVB
required
Active period
diurnal
Diet
herbivore
Same-species company
solitary
Beginner
Yes
Type
tortoise
Origin
Central Asia
Living environment
indoor terrarium with deep, diggable substrate; no garden required
Activity
2 / 5
Lifespan
40 – 50 years
Size
Mini
Weight
0.4 – 1.3 kg
Length
13 – 25 cm

About the species

Among the tortoises kept in Slovenian and Croatian terrariums, the Russian tortoise is by far the smallest, and also the most popular choice for anyone getting their first tortoise. It comes from the steppes and semi-deserts of Central Asia - from the Caspian coast through Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan to western China - where it adapted to large temperature swings between summer and winter.

How to recognise it

The most reliable sign is the number of claws: the Russian tortoise has only four claws on each front foot, while the Greek, Hermann's and most other tortoises have five. Its shell is lower and rounder than a Greek or Hermann's tortoise's, and the colour is usually olive to yellowish-brown, without a strong black-and-yellow pattern. Females grow somewhat larger than males, which have longer tails.

Terrarium, temperature and humidity

As a steppe species, the Russian tortoise tolerates much drier air than its Mediterranean relatives - humidity of around 40-50% usually suits it, while the Greek or Hermann's tortoise need it higher. The basking zone should be around 35°C, with a cooler zone between 21 and 27°C; at night it tolerates cooler temperatures than most other tortoises. Substrate should be deep enough (at least a few centimetres) for the animal to dig into, which is natural, important behaviour for this species rather than just a quirk. UVB lighting is just as essential as for other tortoises.

Burrowing and long brumation

In the wild, the Russian tortoise digs burrows that can reach roughly two metres deep, retreating into them to escape heat, cold or drought. It spends part of the year - by some accounts anywhere from about two months to as long as nine, depending on climate - in dormancy (brumation). That is considerably longer than the dormancy period of Mediterranean tortoises, so keepers planning hibernation should treat this as a natural habit rather than a sign of illness.

Diet

Diet is similar to other tortoises - the focus should be on fibrous wild greens, grasses and calcium-rich leafy vegetables, with fruit only a rare treat because of its high sugar content.

Is it really a beginner species?

Among tortoises, the Russian tortoise genuinely counts as one of the easier ones for a beginner - it is smaller, tolerates a wider humidity range and is fairly hardy. That does not make it undemanding: it still needs UVB, proper hibernation and a terrarium that grows with it, and the commitment lasts decades. Unlike the Greek or Hermann's tortoise, which fall under the stricter Annex A, the Russian tortoise, according to available sources, falls under the less strict Annex B of the EU's wildlife trade regulation, meaning private owners generally do not need the same ARSO registration required for a Greek tortoise - even so, we recommend checking the animal's origin and any documentation needed at the time of purchase.

Health and common problems

As with other tortoises, most problems stem from a lack of UVB and calcium (risking shell softening) and from an environment that is too damp or too cold, which raises the risk of respiratory infections. Because this species is adapted to dry air, the bigger risk for it is often over-humidifying the terrarium rather than under-humidifying it.

Temperament

lively, curious, active, independent, hardy

Suitable for

beginners and families wanting a less demanding tortoise

Living environment

indoor terrarium with deep, diggable substrate; no garden required

Grooming

UVB, dry diggable substrate, long brumation; less humidity than Mediterranean tortoises

Pros & cons

Advantages of the species

easier care than Mediterranean tortoises, smaller and suited to a smaller terrarium, hardy species for beginners

Things to consider

long yearly dormancy period called brumation, needs dry diggable substrate, a long-lived animal needing a lifelong commitment

Notes

The Russian tortoise is the smallest of the tortoises commonly kept in our region, and the only one with four claws on each front foot instead of five. According to available sources, under the EU wildlife trade regulation it falls under the less strict Annex B (unlike the Greek or Hermann's tortoise, which are Annex A), so private owners generally do not need the same ARSO registration - we still recommend checking the animal's origin and any documentation needed at purchase. In the wild it overwinters for much longer than Mediterranean tortoises, by some accounts up to nine months a year.

Frequently asked questions

Why is the Russian tortoise considered the most beginner-friendly tortoise?

The Russian tortoise is smaller than the Greek or Hermann's tortoise, tolerates a wider humidity range, and is generally hardy, which is why experienced keepers often recommend it as an entry species. It still needs UVB lighting, supervised hibernation and a terrarium that grows with it, though, and the commitment lasts decades.

How do you recognise a Russian tortoise among other tortoises?

The most reliable sign is the number of claws - the Russian tortoise has only four on each front foot, while most other tortoises have five. Its shell is also lower and rounder, and the colour is usually olive to yellowish-brown without a strong pattern.

Why does the Russian tortoise stay dormant for so long?

In the wild, the Russian tortoise digs deep burrows and retreats into them to escape heat, cold or drought, part of its natural rhythm in a steppe climate with extreme temperatures. Its dormant period can last anywhere from about two months to as long as nine months a year, depending on climate and conditions, so long inactivity is not by itself a sign of illness.

Does the Russian tortoise need the same humidity as the Greek or Hermann's tortoise?

No - the Russian tortoise comes from dry steppe regions of Central Asia and tolerates much lower humidity, roughly 40-50%, while Mediterranean species like the Greek and Hermann's tortoise need it higher. An overly humid terrarium is often a bigger risk for a Russian tortoise than one that is too dry.

Does an owner have to register a Russian tortoise with ARSO like a Greek tortoise?

According to available sources, the Russian tortoise falls under the less strict Annex B of the EU wildlife trade regulation, unlike the Greek or Hermann's tortoise on Annex A, so private owners generally do not need the same registration. We still recommend checking the animal's origin and any documentation needed at the time of purchase.

How big does a Russian tortoise get and how long does it live?

An adult Russian tortoise's shell reaches roughly 13-25cm, with females growing somewhat larger than males, and its weight is usually around 0.4-1.3kg depending on size and sex. With good care it commonly lives roughly 40-50 years, and by some accounts considerably longer, so owning one is a multi-decade commitment.

What does a Russian tortoise need in its terrarium besides food?

Besides UVB lighting and a basking zone around 35°C, it needs deep, dry substrate it can dig into, since this is natural behaviour for the species, not a quirk. The cooler zone should sit around 21-27°C, and at night it tolerates cooler temperatures than most other tortoises.

Related species

This species profile is editorially prepared on Živalce.si.

Sources and photos

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